Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Scotland -May 2017


The spring travel plans were three weeks in Scotland and Ireland, hoping to arrive before the onslaught of tourists. Not so. We were amazed at the throng of tourists strolling the Royal Mile of Edinburgh, Scotland on a Monday in May. This Royal Mile was used by Kings to travel between the Edinburgh Castle and their residence at the Holyroodhouse Palace. This is the palace used when the U.K. royalty visit Scotland thus, not used often.
          Our stroll to the castle was luckily timed with the daily 1:00 cannon firing with the changing of the two Royal Guards. What a boring job, standing at attention, an hour at a time. Why do they shoot the cannon at 1:00, not noon? Those smart Scots are budget-wise spending only one cannon ball daily, not a dozen.
          The impressive castle, and Scotland’s main tourist attraction, sits high atop an ancient volcano. It looks quite ominous and foreboding. Armies have stormed it since the 1st century up until 1745. Prisoners of war have been held in its dungeons until their rate of escape became too great. The crown jewels of Scotland, a crown, sword and sceptre, are on view. Kings have been born here including James VI born to Mary Queen of Scots. Mary was held prisoner in this castle until she escaped to her cousin, Queen Elizabeth of England. Jealous Elizabeth later had Mary be-headed. What a family rivalry!
      A new word learned was “close” meaning the narrow alleyways in cities among the tenement buildings. Due to over-crowding, the apartment buildings were raised to upwards of six stories, skyscrapers of the time. Until the 18th century, there was no plumbing but plenty of disease and death due to the unsanitary conditions. Each apartment, which housed about a dozen family members, collected their daily waste in a bucket. The waste included human excrement, dead pets and other disease causing organisms. So, to get the smelly bucket out of the apartment, no one wanted to walk the sloshing bucket down the steps so the ingenious solution was to toss the contents out the window onto the narrow alleyway below. Thank God it rains a lot (265 days a year) in Scotland! Oh, and what did they do with the supposed “witches” that weren’t burned at the stake in the main courtyard? Toss them into the loch (lake) at the edge of the village which also served as their drinking water. Thus, disease followed by death was a handy means of population control in a very crowded space.
          Little did I know that Scotland is one of the youngest countries in our world? A 1997 referendum evolved into a Scottish parliament of 105 members. Amongst the beautiful historical architecture of ancient buildings sits a marvelously contemporary group of parliament buildings. A visit into their modern parliament meeting room revealed contemporary desks looking to be of Scandinavian design. It’s quite the contrast to the rest of Old Town.
          It is a sad era when one can associate a country visited to the most recent suicide bombing. For this country it was the Manchester, England bombing at the Ariel Grande concert. Walking by the flower bouquets laid at the Sir Walter Scott monument at our arrival in Glasgow was a sobering reminder.
          Glasgow is a city for culture and food but our favorite activity was the 35 mile bicycle trip we took along the path beside the Clyde River. Scotland is cycle friendly with marked paths throughout the country. Soon we were in the bucolic country-side with the baby geese, small boats and spring flowers.
          Via a 12 hour charter tour and an excellent tour guide who told us stories all along the way while he drove the van, we did a day trip north to the Highlands. We passed Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the U.K. at 4,000’. A 30 minute boat ride on Loch (lake) Ness and there was nary a spotting of Nessie. Stopping along the way at villages for ice cream, an ancient castle and a stunning view with a bagpipe player blowing his heart out, I thought he might have a heart attack. The Scots and Brits certainly had many a bloody fight over the centuries. Watching the movie Braveheart starring Mel Gibson is only the tip of their stories of torture, pillaging and massacres.  Ironically today, the police do not carry guns and it is illegal for citizens to own a gun. The Scots train police departments for many countries, U.S. included, on how to disarm conflicts without a gun.
          Food and travel; what is the must-try food of Scotland? Haggis with Nips and Tatties. Although eating the innards (heart, liver, kidneys, intestines) of lamb, or venison, sounds quite nasty, it is actually quite tasty. With plenty of spices and crumbled over mashed potatoes and turnips, it makes a fine main course. Or, roll it into balls with bread crumbs and you have haggis balls.  Let’s talk about the liquid journey through Scotland, a mecca for Scottish whisky and gin. So many flavors to choose from based upon the region or the flavorings added. Tastings were a plenty and an even better sampler was ordering a flight of gin. Cheers!

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