Balkans-2023

 

Balkans-2023

Photos - https://link.shutterfly.com/6KHJenlxfEb

Exploring four Balkan countries by bicycle October 2023 introduced me to an enchanting land that has been virtually untouched by tourism. Tour company (www.CycleAlbania.com ), with guide Erlis, led our multi-national group of 18 cyclists from six countries (Hong Kong, Scotland, Netherlands, England, Scotland, and USA) for 392 miles over 12 days cycling and two rest days.  With the assistance of transfer coaches, we were transported to the most scenic portions, mostly mountains, of Albania (size of Maryland), Kosovo (Delaware), Macedonia (Vermont) and Montenegro (Connecticut). With the strong US Dollar, the “Balkan Express” trip cost of $2,100 is a fraction of what U.S. cycle tours would cost comparable to the amenities received of lodging, transfer coaches, three meals a day, bikes, panniers, multi-lingual guide, support van and driver. We were fortunate to have clear, sunny skies every day while viewing the rich traditions, vibrant cultures and yummy new cuisines.

The Balkans have a long-complicated history of kingdoms and thieftains. At times friends, then foes, then friends again. For centuries, it was the Turk Ottomans or the Austrian Hungarians ruling over the various Balkan Countries. After WWII, Tito came into power by organizing a resistance movement and liberating Yugoslavia from the Russians. Tito was able to maintain cohesiveness of the six republics until his death in 1980.  After his death, much fighting and political strife began including ethnic cleansing. The U.N. came into play in 1999 bombing Serbia to stop them from annihilating Bosnia. Now the former Yugoslavia is split into seven smaller countries.

            Albania was never a part the former Yugoslavia. They had the worst oppression. Communism took over after WWII and the country went into darkness until they overcame it in 1990.  Think of present-day North Korea to get a perspective. Barbed fences, vicious dogs and sharp shooters surrounded their borders killing anyone trying to get in or, get out of Albania. The common citizens were fed fake news, nearly starved, wire-tapped, and often imprisoned or killed as political prisoners. Walking was their mode of transportation as only those in power had access to a car. Albania and Kosovo used to be one country but after WWII, the region was split into two countries, often separating families until the end of Albania’s oppression in 1990.

            Surprisingly, the roads we cycled were in great condition with just a few exceptions where paving was occurring on small sections of mountain roads. Our four border crossings were seamless. Their mountains are similar elevation to ours in Western North Carolina. 5,700’ was the highest we rode. It was fun to photograph the motorcycle clubs also enjoying the mountain roads. We had many fun descents with the most memorable being 20 miles into Kotor, Montenegro. Eight miles was a fast descent on a nice, wide road with good pavement, up to 45 mph. The last 12 miles was a narrow road with tunnels, lots of switchbacks and cliff-side drops off the edge of the road. I'm not sure if it was the sheer beauty or, the sheer cliff off the side of the road that made me feel like I was holding my breath for the 12-mile descent.  A couple of cyclists chose to ride in the van for that section.

 

            Looking at Cycle Albania tours currently available for 2024, there are five Balkan Express tours open to multi-national attendees. Two of them are already fully booked. They also offer two other routes, north Albania, and south Albania, also with many UNESCO world heritage sites. They also run many private tours for various bike clubs around the World that are not listed on their website.  Another option is a tour company owned by my tour guide that offers "authentic" type tours doing some homestays and focusing on more UNESCO locations. See https://beyondalbania.com