January 29 - March 10, 2016
Exploring a new continent in addition
to a new country, my six week winter adventure landed us in South
Africa. This year is not "roughing it" as a solo traveler using
public transportation and hostels. We rented a car and brought our fold-up travel
bicycles with nice lodging using mostly www.airbnb.com. The South African
currency (Rand) has fallen quite low so spending our USD is giving us a great
value and inexpensive trip. The flight over the pond included a 12 hour layover
in Paris, France for a tour of Notre Dame, a double-decker bus tour of the
major sights and 15 minutes to track down Mona Lisa in the Louvre.
Our initial reaction to Cape Town was
"Love at First Sight". Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities
in the world and rightfully acclaimed on the NY Times Top Places to Visit in
2015. Cape Town is a modern city with eclectic restaurants, beautiful
coastline surrounded by majestic rock mountains and a plethora of tourist
activities including aquarium, botanical gardens, boat tours, museums, etc. Our
two weeks included (for my birthday) a 30 minute helicopter tour, para-gliding
off Lion’s Head Mountain landing by the bay and a gondola ride up Table
Mountain (one of the official Seven New Wonders of the World). On top of the
great exchange rate, we took advantage of buying coupons on Groupon for
massages and meals. Cycling is very popular in Cape Town and we had some scenic
rides along the coast and through wine country. A five-day pass at a yoga
studio impressed us with their yoga practice. I was also pleased with the
number of gluten free options and health food stores.
The first heart
transplant occurred in in 1967 by Dr. Christian Barnard. Touring the hospital
museum, our tour guide was his official photographer during those glory years. While
Dr. Barnard is now dead, the photographer told scandalous stories of the
doctor’s trysts with 100+ women, an over-night fling with Gina Lollobrigida,
three divorces including the third to a 19 year old when he was 68. He died
alone at age 86.
Driving our little
VW Polo hatchback was an adventure (daily) in itself. It was my first
experience driving in a foreign country. In South Africa, they drive on the
left side of the road while sitting on the right side of the car. The manual
stick shift is with your left hand. All of this is made more challenging with
the steep terrain. I unaffectionately called it my “death-trap”. I’m thankful I
lived to tell this story. We drove 3,200 miles, starting at the southern point
of Cape Town, driving north-east along the Indian Ocean coast following the
Garden Route, cutting north through mountains, semi-arid dessert, grassy
plains, detouring east into the country of Swaziland, going farther north to
tour Blyde Canyon, jaunting east again for four days in Krueger National Park
then six hours inland to finish in Johannesburg. After leaving Cape Town, it was all two lane
roads but many were long, straight and flat getting up to 80+ mph. I was
impressed with the quality of the roads and the excellent signage. Most cars
seem to be white or silver so whenever a bright red car popped over the hill,
it was noticed.
Being in the
southern hemisphere, February and March is their summer. Typical high
temperatures were in the 80’s. In the mountain towns we could get relief in the
70’s. But in Krueger Park the temps were sweltering 100’s.
In addition to English, the
primary language is Afrikaans, along with nine indigenous languages. The Dutch were the first European settlers in
the 1600’s so Afrikaans sounds somewhat Dutch, but not. When the Dutch come to visit, they don’t
understand each other. The British show up on the scene in the 1800’s and guess
what, they don’t get along with the Dutch. Two Anglo-Boer Wars ensue between the Dutch
(Boers) and Brits (Anglo) disagreeing over slavery, voting rights and control
of the prolific gold and diamond mines discovered in the Johannesburg area. The
Dutch were unhappy with the abolition of slavery brought on by the Brits. Once
the Dutch prevailed in the two Anglo-Boer Wars, racism continued. Blacks were
not allowed to vote, 8% of the land was set aside for blacks. In 1913, whites
were given 90% of the land while comprising 20% of the population.
During the early 1900’s, young attorney, Mahatma Gandhi
shows up and is discriminated against because he is not white. He is brown,
from India. This discrimination led him into a life as a leader of nonviolent
resistance amidst his many arrests. This was the same philosophy later followed
by Nelson Mandela, which developed him into a great leader.
By the 1948 (white) elections,
Apartheid (meaning “apart” i.e. segregated) was campaigned and voted into
power. This seems rather late in time considering this was a time period in the
U.S. when desegregation was coming into vogue. Laws were passed prohibiting
mixed marriages and interracial sex. In 1950 the Group Areas Act was passed
which physically forced blacks and coloreds out of desirable city properties
into townships far outside of cities. Driving by these townships, on the
outside of every town, I would describe them as shanty towns. Metal shacks were
scantily built with limited infrastructure. Long walks, still today, just to
get to public transportation. Additionally, separate beaches, buses, hospitals,
schools and even park benches were created.
Apartheid continued until 1990,
repealed after years of violent demonstrations, embargos by many countries,
including the U.S. South Africa dismantled its nuclear weapons; Mandela was
released from prison after 27 years. A new constitution was written. Mandela
became president in the first democratic election in 1994 giving his famous
“Free at Last” victory speech. While
staying in wine country, we learned from our hosts that Mandela was being
groomed to be president, even while in jail. He was transferred to a prison in
near Franschoek and was often seen walking around town with his prison guard as
an effort to re-acquaint him with the current society. It was felt by the
whites that he would be the most reconciliatory leader post-apartheid.
Today, South Africa’s
government struggles with corruption, low confidence by the citizens and 25%
unemployment rate. Many white retired adults we met have grown children that
moved to New Zealand, Canada or elsewhere in search of jobs and a better life.
The middle class white neighborhoods have security signs posted stating “Armed
Response”. When asked, they choose to pay a security service to protect them
since they have little confidence the police will arrive timely. Yet, wherever
we stayed or traveled, we felt safe. One of my greatest fears arriving was
having my belongings stolen via a car break-in. We just used precaution and were
fine.
South Africa has the world’s
largest population of people with HIV/AIDS (> 6 million). Swaziland has the
world’s highest percentage of people living with HIV/AIDS at 26%. In Swaziland,
any government run bathroom had plentiful boxes of free condoms. In one ladies
room, I even found female condoms.
Malaria was a high concern since
northwest South Africa and Swaziland are still considered malaria zones by the
CDC. After much contemplation and quizzing of other travelers, I chose not to
take the antimalarial meds. As it turned out, we rarely saw mosquitoes. Other
than Krueger, homes where we stayed didn’t even have screens. We came equipped
with DEET and never needed it. The drought currently plaguing the country has
helped to decrease the mosquito population.
Currently, only 9% of the
population is white, located primarily in the southern two provinces. Seventy
nine percent is black. Today, the primary tourists are Germans, Dutch and
English. Hosts are thrilled to see an American show up on the scene. Speaking
of Americans, we heard similar Oscar Buzz here on TV and radio, just as in the
U.S. We even watched the Oscars the following day. Surprisingly, South Africa
did not get TV service until 1976. Until then, they sat around radios for
entertainment. Listening to our car radio or music in the shops, it’s the same
hit music as in the U.S. We were hardly a day without hearing Adele belt out
one of her hit songs.
From Cape Town, we spent a day
going further south to the Cape of Good Hope, the most southwest point on the
African continent where the Atlantic and Indian Ocean meet and also a
historical place of many shipwrecks. It’s a rocky coast and protected as a
nature preserve, viewing ostrich and kudu roaming freely. Stopping at a bay in-route,
was a lively penguin colony with many of them nesting their eggs. An equal
rights animal, the male and female take equal turns nesting the eggs and caring
for the young. Driving north again was the Chapmen’s Peak scenic drive cut into
the side of a rocky mountain along the Atlantic Ocean coastline. Stunning and
exhilarating, as I peak over the edge of the massive drop from the edge of the
two-lane road.
Leaving Cape Town, we spent a couple
weeks exploring the Garden Route zig-zagging along the coast then turning
inland over the mountains to view the interior. Starting with wine country, we
stayed in the two wine villages of Stellanbosch and Franschhoek. Timing was
perfect to attend their annual wine festival, staged outdoors with majestic
rocky mounts surrounding the field. Speaking to my wine daughter expert, she
believes the U.S. imports very little South African wine because it’s a less
complex taste. Speaking to one of our hosts, another theory is the import of
wines to the U.S. from New Zealand and other far countries came at a time when
South Africa was under an international embargo due to Apartheid.
Today, the wine region is an
international draw to tourists. With the weak currency, foreign investors have
purchased these rural vineyards, poured money into re-kindling life into the
farms, built luxury accommodations and world-class restaurants to rival any found
in the Napa Valley. We had dinner at the Delaire Graff winery. The Graff money
comes from diamonds. Visitors may go diamond shopping, on premise.
The L’Ormarins Vineyard owned
by Antonij Rupert, one of South Africa’s wealthiest families, has one of the
most amazing vintage car collections in the world. With over 300 vehicles, 80
are show-cased at a time with more than 100 years of motoring history.
Driving along the coast, we
stay at the popular whaling village of Kleinmond for seafood and to be amused
by the penguins at Betty’s Bay, one of only 27 colonies of African penguins. Hermanus
had a five mile cliff walk. Knysna is a town with beautiful homes built on
cliffs over-looking the narrow mouth to the bay. We enjoyed cycling their
countryside and islands. Plettenburg Bay was a cycle jaunt around town and a
walk on the beach.
Passing over the mountains to
semi-arid desert region was Oudtshoorn, the Ostrich capital of the world. Send
an email if you would like to view me riding an ostrich, not that easy. With
the assistance of two men, I slide my legs under her wings and hold onto the
base of the wings. Then she goes running to the herd at which time I slide off
her back. Ostrich are dumb animals with small brains and live up to 40 years. The
ostrich walked here from the Sahara Desert, in search of food. Ostrich do not
live in Australia because they cannot stand the cooler season. Emu’s live in
Australia. The ostrich egg is very hard and is equivalent to two dozen chicken
eggs. The egg can handle great pressure i.e. a person standing on it. But, it
will crack with a sudden jolt such as a baby ostrich pecking its way out of the
shell. Painted ostrich eggs are for sale throughout the country. In the heyday
of the early 1900’s, prior to the depression, ostrich feathers were selling for
exorbitant amounts, often for glitzy showgirl costumes. Many a mansion, call
Ostrich Palaces, were built in Oudtshoorn from the sale of a few feathers.
Properly cooked, ostrich meat is tasty. The other source of income is the hide
for ostrich leather. A day trip from Oudtshoorn was a drive over the narrow,
gravel road of Swartberg Pass, an engineering masterpiece. Viewpoints along the
way cause the tummy to do somersaults.
Still in southwest South Africa, is
the Addo Elephant Park. A huge success in preservation of elephants (and their
tusks), the park had five elephants in 1943. By 2009 the herd was greater than
500. This is a self-drive park to view the wildlife. There are fines if caught
outside your car or hanging out your window. In addition to a herd of elephants
at a waterhole, we spotted zebra grazing, warthogs darting and Dulker (deer)
and Eland (cow-like) grazing.
A six hour drive north brought us to
the quiet, cool mountain village of Clarens. Surrounded by craggy limestone
rocks and bright green hills, it’s the gateway to the Golden Gate Park, a
self-drive park of rock formations similar to what you would see in southern
Utah. Clarens is an art destination and place of alternative healing. Clarens was
a difficult place to leave.
Another six hour drive brought us to
the country of Swaziland, a kingdom still controlled by a royal family. The
current king has 16 wives. His father died with 26 wives and ~250 children.
Basically, you get add a new wife every other year. The next king is based upon
the youngest son born, having no brothers or sisters. Thus, the king may be a
child at which time his mother becomes the Queen Mother. A wife does not ever
receive status as Queen. A Queen comes into power after the King is dead and
she happens to be the mother of the youngest son. Today, 30% of the population
still has more than one wife. The other 70% converted to Christianity and have
one wife. It’s expensive for the groom’s family because it costs you two cows
to give to the bride’s family. Unemployment hovers around 50%.
Cows are like currency in Swaziland.
Cows and goats are found everywhere. They double as stoplights since they often
wonder onto the highways, crossing to graze the other side. Sometimes, they
just curl up on the roads to rest. In the largest city, the four-lane highway
had cattle gates on the entrance ramps but cattle and goats still graze by the
freeway.
Swaziland is a “small country with a
big heart”, smaller than Krueger Park. It has lush forests, sub-tropical
valleys growing pineapples and sugar cane with mountain grandeur. The people
are smiley, happy people who speak softly. A great place to purchase crafts,
our favorite was the painted, wooden bowls made from the Jacaranda tree.
Touring a cultural village complete
with an hour long native dance show, we saw the beehive huts made of wood, clay
and thatch as used 200 years ago. No windows and only a small opening for a
door. The floor was made from the termite mounds, glazed with cow dung then
allowed to dry. Throughout South Africa
and Swaziland we viewed huge termite mounds out in the middle of fields. The
termite saliva hardens the mound allowing a mound to easily hold the weight of
a man. Some mounds were taller than me.
Touring the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
of non-violent animals, we were able to get out and hike. Viewing impala’s,
kudu and crocodile, we were most impressed with the large number of colorful
birds.
Driving north to the mountainous and
high altitude grassland was the Malolotja Nature Reserve. Where we viewed
baboons running across the grasslands, the wildflowers are the real treat. Here
we partook in the sole canopy tour in the country. Zip-lining from 11 platforms
onto 10 zip wires as we zig-zagged back and forth across the river canyon
finally crossing via a 150’ suspension bridge then hiking out the canyon to the
vehicle to return to camp.
Returning to South Africa, traveling
further north into the small Mpumalanga province, it’s a beautiful region with
vistas of mountains, lush green valley and cooler climate towns. The real draw
was Blyde River Canyon, the world’s third largest canyon. Driving along the
canyon with viewpoints of Pinnacle Rock, a skyscraper rock formation, God’s
Window viewpoint and the most impressive, Bourke’s Luck Potholes. Walking among
the river, the potholes are bizarre cylindrical holes carved into the rock by
whirlpools.
Staying in the lovely mountain town of
Sabie, we hiked waterfalls and mountain biked among a Eucalyptus forest. The
plantation forest around Sabie is pine and eucalyptus, one of the largest
human-made forests in the world. When Eucalyptus trees are cut, the stump is
left then three more trees sprout and re-generate the forest.
Three nights in Krueger National Park,
one of the world’s greatest national parks, larger than Connecticut, finished
out our search of the “Big Five”. Self-drives via our car we photographed
elephant, water buffalo and rhino, and saw hippos. But the missing link to the
Big Five was the leopard and lion. A three hour sunset drive with a park ranger
was beyond our wildest dreams. We found a lion resting with her five cubs
protected beyond her. Our driver waited until no vehicles were in sight then
drove into the bush within 40’ of the mother lion. She just laid there and
watched us as my heart pounded. Further down the road the ranger brought us to
a pride of five female lions and four cubs. They each got up, stretched, defecated
then lazed around prior to their evening hunt. One lion positioned herself 15’
from our open-air truck. We chatted and took pictures for 15 minutes. Then when
my hand pointed outside the open air vehicle, the closest lion tensed and
growled at me and I made a flying leap to the floor. The German tourist on the
opposite aisle said he would have done the same. I’m still dumb-founded how the
tourists are able to get so close to these wild beasts without any human
attacks.
Then, there’s more. We get word of a
leopard sighting 15 minutes from the lions. Leopards are much harder to sight
than Lions as they are solitary cats. We arrive there at dark. We can’t find
the leopard but below us in a dry riverbed is the dead kill of an Impala
antelope just made by the leopard. We re-position the vehicle to get closer.
Three tourists are manning spotlights in search of the missing leopard. Then
this massive male leopard crawls from the rocks out of hiding. Lying there
surveying us 20’ above him and his dead prey below him. Ten minutes later he
slyly climbs down to the dead kill and begins eating his victim. Our park
ranger, of five months tenure, said he sees the big cats everyday but this is
his first to see a cat eat its prey.
Beyond the Big Five sought after
animals to view, we also found giraffe, hippos, zebras and tons of the antelope
family. We stayed in rondavels (round huts) in two different camps within the
park. In the park we had the morning visit of monkeys and guinea birds. The
park has endured a year of drought, worse than in 30 years. Many water holes
are dry. The grass is a fraction of its typical height. It will be a natural
culling of animals with the strongest surviving.
Last stop is Johannesburg, a big city
with high crime, little heart but, a major airport.
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